Our tour, lead by American military officers, was scant on history but we were allowed into places many tours aren't permitted. Only about 40 minutes from Seoul, we first headed to Panmunjeom (home of the JSA, or Joint Security Area) where all negotiations and meetings between officers of the United States and South and North Korean armies have been held since 1953. We first went into the United Nations meeting room, half of which is IN North Korea. (I've been to North Korea!) Our "tour guide" Officer (Sergeant? Lieutenant?) Pearson was adamant that we not gesture, point or blow kisses toward North Korea.
After leaving Panmunjeom we went to a museum located next to a North Korean-dug "Third Tunnel of Aggression" dug to invade Seoul (five of which have been discovered since 1953). First, we watched a propaganda-filled film about how the DMZ fosters incredible wildlife and the U.S. Army is almost single-handedly responsible for protecting the freedoms and people of South Korea. (Ahem.) Then we went into the tunnel, 500ft below ground. A pretty incredible experience. Unfortunately, like many places throughout the DMZ, we weren't allowed to take photos in the tunnel. Don't want to go all Laura Ling on you people, I couldn't cut it in a work camp for 5 seconds.
North Korea is a pretty messed up place. After driving through one of many "peace villages" (...it had a very twilight-zone feel to it...) inhabited by the "best marksmen in the Korean army," we went to a viewing area/point. Kijong-dong, a North Korean "peace village" (known as "propaganda village" to the rest of the world) it is the only settlement in North Korea within direct eye and earshot of the DMZ and essentially, the West. A giant radio tower serves to block out ALL communication from the outside world. Famine and malnutrition are widespread. There is a nationally-mandated dress code. Most people live on about $1 a day. If you speak against Kim Jong-Il you will undoubtedly be killed. Like I said, messed up.
Over all, it was enlightening experience if not particularly educational. Did I mention it was about 20F? Just how I like my North Korea.
North Korean soldier (freakin scary).
Blue buildings are UN sanctioned, part of the JSA. The small gray building to the right is the "North Korean Rec" Building, this building holds no gym equipment however.
Matt is proving to be a very good sport about having his photo taken...Jasmine surely warned him.
Helen rivals Jon in photographability.
Peace, nature and harmony is just a Stalinist dictatorship away.
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